Alexander McQueen, the great British fashion designer and couturier was an absolute gem to all those that loved fashion. Known for his brilliant knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, thanks to an apprenticeship with Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard. MqQueen’s collections display a juxtaposition of strength and fragility along with emotional power and raw energy. McQueen also had the great honour of working as the chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001 and of course founding his own self titled label. McQueen’s raw talent and dedication to his work earned him four British Designer of the Year awards (1996, 1997, 2001 and 2003,) as well as the CFDA’s International Designer of the Year Award in 2003.
After McQueen’s tragic death in 2010, Sarah Burton was named as creative director of the Alexander McQueen label. Speaking about the Womenswear SS13 collection Burton explains that the collection is :
A study of femininity. We looked at erotica. Vargas girls, cages, corsets and
crinolines and the idealisation of the female form.
We are told that there is no set period and the collection is about sensuality and skin but not nudity. The clothes express lightness almost hovering over the women who wear them. Inspiration comes from erotica, bees, butterflies and meadow flowers. SS13 sees the return of a heritage silhouette, feminine silhouettes are also exaggerated through wasp waists and constructed hips. Signature tailored jackets are layered over jewelled,moulded resin bustier tops and sheer, mid-calf length honeycomb pencil skirts, or cropped panelled trousers. This sees a play between covering the body whilst also subtly exposing it.
Lightness is paramount:intricately woven jacquards, lacquered lace and laser cut patent leather hover over silk organza.
Honeycomb jacquards, mesh and lace. Lacquered lace, organza and tulle. Moulded resin, patent leather can all be seen. Taking inspiration from the bees gold thread bee and honeycomb embroideries can be seen along with appliqued and embroidered flowers and moulded tortoise-shell bodices, belts, chokers and cuffs encrusted with jewelled bees. Beekeeper hats with patent leather and honeycomb lace veils. Black, white and poppy red. Gold, marigold, buttercup, honey and primrose yellow are the predominant colours.